16 Best Golf Cart Battery Meter 36 Volt (2023 Updated)

A good friend of mine got a 14 foot aluminum boat this past fall. It is his first boat, and is powered by a Minn Kota 50 pound thrust electric trolling motor. The first few times he went out, he did not stray far from the launch site, as he was worried he would get too far out and not have enough power left on his battery to get back in.

So, I surprised him and bought him this battery meter so he could check his charge level whenever he felt he needed to. This is a great little meter. It fits easily into any tackle box, glove box, pocket or any compartment you’ve got.

It does a pretty good job of measuring how much charge you have left, is quick and easy to operate and is an overall good product for a good price. Now my buddy feels safe enough to venture out a little farther from the dock.

He can quickly check his charge now, and loves the meter. In my opinion, any small boat with an electric trolling motor should have a decent battery meter on board. Power on!.

The digital read out is a nice improvement. They cheaped out on the length of the wire. It barley reaches average battery poles. How much could they have saved?

This is my 2nd tester. My original tester had been with me for 15 years when I accidentally pulled the wire out. You will be happy with this product because of its size and can be kept in your boat year round close at hand.

First class quality. I tried the cheap chargers and they would only last a year or so. This product is smarter, and keeps the cart charged if left unattended for long periods. The quality is noticeable first off.

The input and output cables are heavy and handle the charge easily without overheating. This product is more expensive, but worth every penny. We get what we pay for!.

Works well, I had an issue with the brass pins in the D plug, I had to open the plug and loosen the screws holding the brass pins, adjust the pins and re-tighten because they were miss aligned with my golf cart pins.

Quick and easy fix, charger works well.

Works better than my old one. Had several bad batteries, One blew up, that’s my fault, batteries were old. Replaced them all, works great.

Bought this charger for my Yamaha 36 volt golf cart. Worked great for 9 months then started running all the time – even when disconnected from the golf cart. Contacted the manufacturer about the supposed 18 month warranty.

Explained that the charger was running with the green light on even when the crows foot connection was not plugged into the golf cart. They asked the age of the batteries and the voltage across the crows foot connection on the cart.

I asked what that had to do with the charger running when not connected to the golf cart. Was told either I provide the information on battery and voltage or they would take no further action. Asked what that had to do with the danger of the charger plug still being “hot” when not connected to the cart, the risk of shorts, sparks, and fire if the contact touched metal since they were still “hot”? Again told to answer the battery and voltage question or nothing would be done.

Borrowed voltage meter and emailed that the batteries were 18 month old and the voltage was 37. 5v. Manufacturer now will not respond to my calls on what they plan to do. I’m out $260 for a substandard item.

The antique Original Equipment charger that I got when I bought my 2003 Club Car DS a year and a half ago was heavy and clunky, but it worked. Until last fall, that is. Rather than spend money and effort repairing a very old and clearly beaten up charger, I elected to put the money towards a new one.

I am glad I did. This ModzMax36 is compact, quiet and modern – it “talks” to the batteries before starting a charge cycle and then does the charging job in the best way for the current state of the batteries.

Plus, it functions as a battery maintainer for long term storage! Waaaayyyy better than my old OEM charger! The icing on the cake was that they were having a promotion so I saved a few dollars. It seems to be very nicely constructed, a quality piece.

This charger replaced my original charger. The difference between the two chargers is remarkable. The old charger is heavy and big, Charges quickly, but probably too quickly for the long term use of golf cart batteries.

In fact, lucky to get 5 years out of them with limited summer use. Winter they discharge. The NEW CHARGER charges at 15 amp and trickle charges when left connected to golf cart. Should make batteries last longer and should allow for slow charging over winter to prevent discharge.

The cost of this charger is also substantial less that an original replacement would be. Now I have two chargers.

I was surprised that this meter does not function like a voltmeter, in that it does not just display bars based upon the actual voltage measured at a particular time. It has a memory, and it “learns” the voltage range for your pack over a couple of charge cycles.

The good thing is that it doesn’t drop really low when you step on the accelerator and the voltage sags, so it gives you a much more stable reading. The bad news is that I’m not sure exactly how accurate it is, especially at the mid and low range.

It at least is easy to read, and it gives you some indication of the state of charge of your pack, as opposed to having no meter at all.

I thought all the lights stayed on and they trickled off as the battery discharged but not the case. Only the single led bar is on for the corresponding level of charge. Not a big deal as it seems to work well.

Tested it after three charges and appears to be accurate.

Very easy to install. The only problem I ran into was when i was hooking it up to my ignition switch. It will not come on, so i hooked it up straight to my batteries and it lights up perfectly.

Item pictured is not what is shipped. “State of Charge” not printed, rear support not metal, thin plastic. When connected, meter is not accurate. Full charged battery, needle is in middle of “white area CHG”.

Dead battery, needle still in “green”. Now I have a hold in dash with a defective meter.

I bought an old Club car with old batteries. Maybe I can drive that package this summer withouth buying new batteries. The Charge meter (voltmeter) helps me.

I have installed four of these units on my friends golf carts and we love them.

Water flow restricted by bend in hose as can be seen in item picture even after attempting to straighten. Had to pinch hose while holding unit.

It is a great product, very accurate and very helpful addition to my golf cart

Works well and will keep us from running out of Battery power.

Great fit for my cart but I wish you would have a complete cable set. The positive and negative cables plus the five other cables. I had to make the long positive and negative cables that I bought at a parts store.

Nice thick cables for my 36V system. Ez to install. Great price for a quality product.

As a better and deeper way to analyze the battery Hydrometer is an important tool, even though it is an outdated method as newer batteries often are sealed or hard to get a sample of the acid in each cell.

It seems to work properly and appears accurate. It doesn’t always give great information but that is probably due to the age & condition of the batteries.

The Hydrometer is not to test volts in the battery. It tests the acid to water level. The battery can have 12 volts and have a bad cell.

Normal volt meters are not very useful in a camper because you have to disconnect the battery to and let it rest for an hour or so to get an accurate volt reading to see how much the battery is discharged.

Not very practical. This product is an amp meter and actually measures how much energy is going in and out of the battery. After setting it up you tell it how many aH you batteries hold and once they are charged it will then measure how much energy leaves and comes back in to the battery.

While it gives you the numbers a simple percentage display shows you much of what you need to know. Its also accurate enough that you can turn things on and off and see how many amps they pull which can help to troubleshoot issues or just giving you a good idea how much that light or furnace actually uses from your batteries.

Installation is fairly easy. The shunt needs to go near your batteries and goes between the negative terminal on the battery and all negative cables from the camper. Everything has to run through the shunt to get an accurate reading.

There is also a small red cable to run from the shunt to the positive terminal of the battery. The small meter gets installed inside somewhere and there is a small phone type cable which runs from the shunt to the meter.

The shunt is the only negative thing of the whole kit. There are some electronics on it so it needs to stay try. For most campers the batteries are outside in a battery box which may not be 100% water proof.

I made it work but I’d like to see a version of the shunt which is more waterproof itself. Also the shunt is rated for 500 amps so the terminals on it are huge. My battery cables were not as big so I had to open them up a bit to fit on the shunt terminals.

I don’t need anywhere near 500a so it would have been nice to have a smaller shunt with battery sized terminals. Just noting this for other customers but still love the product. There is also the Bluetooth app which works extremely well to give you much more control and details on whats happening with your electrical system.

If you always camp plugged in to shore power this might not be worth it but if you dry camp this is a must have. Highly recommend this product.

I like the product. Takes a but of time to fine tune but I like all of the options for alerts and protection. My main issue is with the app and Bluetooth. It’s Bluetooth range isn’t great (must be in same room).

Also, the app lacks watts in or out and only shows Amps. Lacks any kind of performance charts or graphs. Just shows last DoD, Average DoD, Deepest DoD, Total Watts Discharged vs Charged (weird that they convert that to watts but not live Amps to Watts.

), Lowest vs Highest Battery Voltage, and a few other things. Some charting would help with battery health tracking. All in all, it’s a decent BMS, my favorite feature is the estimated time you can run whatever load till whatever custom DoD% you choose is reached.

This has got to be my favorite piece of equipment on the boat. The accuracy of this unit is amazing. I tested this by watching the amps that were being drawn from the batteries with my original standers bulb running lights on my sailboat.

I then swapped the running lights to all LED. It went from drawing 1. 5 amps with the old lights to drawing 0. 25 amps with the new LED lights. I performed this test with many of my electronics on the boat and compared the readings with the specs for each peace of equipment and this thing is accurate to the fraction of an amp, The only issue I have is that I have a two battery bank that are wired independently (not in a string) so it only gives basic monitoring of the second battery ( voltage reading).

I still give it a five star rating as this unit is very useful, very accurate and gives me real time monitoring of my battery health. I am thinking of buying another unit to have the full array of monitoring of my second battery.

Wired to Li-ion cells. S1-ok, S2-ok, S3-ok, S4-pfft, smoke and blank screen. This product didn’t even survive it’s first complete connection to a group of batteries. No wrong connection. No wrong use or abuse by me.

It died far too quickly and for no reason I can find. Would not recommend this product. Does not deserve even one star.

I was having trouble with my Revo which has dual steering servos. I had made my mind up that one or both of the servos were bad but decided to purchase this device to help me with diagnostics. This device helped me diagnose my problem and rule out the steering servos which saved me some time and at least $50! I would recommend this to every RC enthusiast! Make sure you purchase a Futaba Y-adapter.

A Y-adapter is required to test servos as the servo and a power source (battery) must be simultaneously connected to the testing device via a Y-adapter. I got the Traxxas 2046 version and it works well.

I wanted to track internal resistance trends over time of my batteries. My current charger does not show IR; this is a much better cost than buying another charger. I can even track the IR of my 1s cells; I created a cable that makes two 1s batteries look like a 2s to this tester.

I found the installation to be straightforward and the measurements (Current draw, Battery Voltage) to be reliable/accurate. The reason for my 3-stars is that I bought the “-712” module based on the explicit claim that the user can use their “VictronConnect” APP to view and *manage the data* captured by this meter.

I had no trouble downloading and installing the app on my phone, and it connected to the BMV-712 easily, just by following the instructions. HOWEVER, I find the APP to be incredibly poor quality for my installation/use-case, in that it does NOT allow the user to “MANAGE the data” as is claimed: While using the app, it completely breaks its connection with the meter– thereby wiping away ALL of the data it has collected to that point– any time the phone goes into screen-saver mode OR if the user (gasp!) switches to another app.

(Can you imagine if ANY other modern app did that? Shutting-down COMPLETELY. any time the phone screen-saves or you go to take a phone call or maybe a look at the e-mail that just came in, or whatever! You’d never get anything done!).

I e-mailed with TWO Home Essentials Direct-hosted sellers of this item for help. It’s a “known problem,” and the net “answer” I got is this : “There is unfortunately no way around this, no. VC’s [the APP’s] access to the Bluetooth module of your phone is only granted when the app is “on top” and the screen is live.

” I’m told that it’s designed that way to prevent its interfering with other apps that might be using the phone’s Bluetooth features. Well, my phone is nothing fancy or cutting-edge; it’s a 2-1/2 year old LG G7 ThinQ Android, and yet it has NO TROUBLE AT ALL running 2 or 3 different apps (Spotify + GoogleMaps + Phone calls) simultaneously through my “Bluetooth module.

” Any smartphone built since, say, 2015, does NOT need Victron’s level of “protection” from the VictronConnect app. This degree of cluelessness/(disregard?) as to the real-world use of their product is Shocking! In addition, when looking at the TRENDS tab: the Percent State-of-Charge (“SOC%”) goes immediately to 100% any time there’s charging power applied to the battery (i.

e. while it’s charging-up). For example, I recently used an external smart-charger with the APP showing the battery had an 89% SOC. Having it go instantly to 100%– when clearly that’s NOT Reality: it takes TIME for the SOC to actually “re-fill” back to 100– makes that measure totally unusable and even misleading to the user! (That’s akin to going to fill your gas tank– from “Empty”– and having the gas-gauge jump to “FULL” the instant you start pumping!) It should instead show the SOC% steadily climbing-back to 100 over the course of the charge cycle.

It’s really too bad: an otherwise SOLID Battery-Management system BUT matched with a Bluetooth app with a poor, C- design in some key critical areas.

I run the BMS to monitor the batteries of our small caravan system. My expectations were more than met. Perfect solution, as the data can also be transferred to the Victron Portal (VRM) and I can read out the status of the system when we’re not there.

Victron components tend to be expensive, but also here Obelink scored well as they had the best price for the device (4/22). The only small problem, the small fuse between the measuring device and the shunt was not included, so a small point deduction.

This is a very well engineered and built product. We’ve been boondocking for up to a week at a time in our fifth wheel, and were always trying to guess what our remaining battery bank capacity was, especially after a cold night with the furnace running (blower is a big energy hog).

In addition, we always had to guess how much capacity we had restored after running the generator or solar panels for awhile. No more guessing! This monitor allows me to see state of charge, amp-hour and current draw, and voltage in real-time.

I’ve used it while running different loads to evaluate actual current draw, and used it with the generator and solar panels to evaluate actual charging rate over time. I especially like the feature whereby the amp-hour draw starts counting backwards as charge is replenished, so you can always see how much “in the hole” you are on restoring what you consumed the night before.

The BMV 700 is a great power management tool for boondocking or marine deep cycle battery applications.

I’ve owned my 87-V Max for about a year. I like that it accurately measures current draw with DC induction motors using inverters and PWM controllers; measurements that fool other meters. I have no idea how this works, but I performed the calculations, and the meter read ~the correct value.

It is perfectly accurate at 10VDC, measured against a Fluke 732B DC Standard. The 732B is a bit overkill for a handheld DMM, but it doesn’t harm anything to use one for verification. I haven’t had cause to use uA or uV scales, but I’ll update if and when I do.

Of note is that the 87-V Max is not approved for use in residential and domestic quarters and property zones, due to the more stringent FCC rules for electromagnetic interference in domestic zones. So, if you have an instance in which the meter is out of spec.

during the warrantee period, you must be using the device in a commercial or industrial zone, or the claim may be denied. I have found the Fluke ’87-V’ Max to be better than the ’87-V’ in that seals are provided for the 2 unused terminals–usually amps–making the unit ip67, or ‘sealed against water entry’! I’m always cautious to keep the meter dry, but with the 87-V Max it’s no big deal.

The accuracy figures spec’ed by Fluke–the manufacturer–have been well within spec, at the DCV, ACA, kOHMS and DCA. I have precision instruments capable of making such an evaluation, including the aforementioned Fluke 732B DC Standard and an ESI SR104 Standard 10k Resistance Bridge, precision current shunts, and a Fluke 720A Precision Divider.

I’m not claiming every example of the 87-V Max will be as good as mine. But mine is most likely near average.

You can’t go wrong with a Fluke. Within the brand, you can’t go wrong with 87V, Fluke’s bestseller. It’s safe, rugged, accurate and the calibration seems to last forever. I’m using it for electronics projects.

Things I like: 1. Wide AC bandwith – up to 20,000 Hz (this makes it usable for audio projects). Most other multimeters (including most other Flukes) are capped at 1000 Hz, at best. 2. “Smart” precision: 6000 counts for regular measurements, switchable to 20,000 counts, with a (loong…) push of a button, when higher precision is needed.

When powered on, it defaults to 6000 counts, hiding the extra-digit that only creates confusion when not need it (which is most of the times for the most of us) – brilliant! 3. Fast. When it displays a measurement, that’s the final value.

You don’t have to wait while watching changing numbers on the display, wondering if it “stabilized” or not. Gorgeous! 4. Full current range – it measures uA, mA and A (AC and DC). Most other Flukes (targeted to electricians) don’t cover all these ranges.

5. Brilliant auto-hold mode: can’t probe and watch the display in the same time? No problem. In “auto-hold” mode, focus on placing the probes where they should be, wait until you hear a beep (about a second or less), remove the probes then check the display – your measurement is there! Most other multimeters (including some cheaper Flukes) only have a useless “hold” function, which requires you to press the “hold” button while holding the probes in place, to keep the value on the display.

Why would you need that for?! 6. Great ergonomics – big rotary switch, with wide spaces between positions, clearly labeled, with markings easy to read (and hard to confuse). You only realize how important this is when you try to use a “feature rich” competitor with lots of not-really-necessary stops on the rotary dial and good looking curved surfaces that make you move your head trying to avoid odd reflections that prevent you from reading the dial.

The digits on the display are easy to read, have a good height/width proportion and spacing. 7. Great resell value. The only reason I bought a new Fluke 87V from Tequipment is that it doesn’t sell for that much more than a 10 year old one.

Based on the number of second hand units on the market, they seem to work forever. Things I don’t like: probes. I have never been a fan of TL75, the standard (i. e. cheapest) Fluke probes. They are a bit rigid and the tips are not that sharp (for electronics work).

Other than that, OK – they do the job. Sure, there are other meters better for particular jobs (including other Flukes). If you need one of those, you already know it. If you are just wondering which Fluke meter you should buy, this is the one.

It does it all. Also, if you wonder whether you really need a Fluke (yes, they are pricey for the features they offer) – well, you can definitely buy cheaper from other brands (like I did before, too).

Just keep in mind that you might get a less accurate one (with possibly more useless digits on the display) that might get even worse in time (drift…) and one day will either simply stop working or (worse) display wrong measurements (get two of them, to check them periodically against each other).

Be careful when using them with high voltages. Or just buy this Fluke, like I did.

My new 87V feels heavy – substantial. It is very solid with strong, positive dial feedback when it is turned between ranges. It also autoranges quite quickly. I will be turning 50 in a couple of months and the dual level backlight brightness and bolder digits are great for my bifocal requiring eyes.

The 87V also adds a tremendous amount of features over my trusty ‘ol 29 Series II (features which I will likely never use. ) This meter was a purchase to upgrade my Fluke 29 Series II that I purchased while in school back in 1994.

It still looks and functions as new. It is still perfectly well within its tolerance limits, even after nearly 28 years and no calibrations. That’s right – it has never even needed a calibration! Whether you need a rugged, precise meter that will hold out in the field for rough high energy applications, a DC electronics “Bench Queen” like mine will be used, or anything in between, you won’t go wrong with the 87V.

The Fluke name speaks for itself around the globe and for good reason.

Works perfect, shows charging level accurately and state of charge, and makes it easy to guage your driving habits to conserve power. I used my volt meter in different levels of charge on the meter so I can almost tell you what voltage im at with a look at the guage.

Love it. Followed the online downloadable directions in your listing and all went smooth. So many people ask for installation instructions when there right there in front of them to download. Thanks for getting it out the door so quickly to me.

I purchased this unit from e-bay. This unit is relatively expensive. I replaced a Tournament 150 of 9 years old – still working, but minus the indicators other than “charging”. I of course, cannot rate this new unit as I have not used it much.

I hope it is of good quality like the previous unit was. It appears to be new and is working properly as far as I can tell. I have to replace another deep cycle battery before I can finish a charge. I am hopeful that it will serve me well.

The price I paid was a good value.

The ProTournament 240 charger performs exactly as advertised. The charger is a great performer that has solved a multi-year battery problem resulting from boat electronics with a constant battery load.

The charger’s ability to modulate its charging output to quickly bring batteries to full charge and then maintain that charge with an intermittent charge is just what was needed.

The unit is great when its working. I’d reluctantly reccomend it because there are very little options for a 4 bank charger out there with this much power. The features are great. I am on my second one so far for a 3 year old boat.

I would expect something this expensive to last longer. I barely used it and the AC side died. Mine was out of warranty so I had to buy another one. It’s in and working, hopefully it lasts longer than the previous one.

These deep cycle Golf Cart batteries have worked well so far. ONCE I got them fully charged. i purchased four of these to run in series/parallel to create a 12volt house battery system for our motor coach.

My complaint is that three of the four batteries were dated 6 of 2019, making them over a year old when I purchased them, which was and is a concern, since they’ve been sitting on a shelf for a year with no charging having been done to them.

Each of year old batteries were at 6. 02 to 6. 1 volts when I got them home and tested them. That is basically “way down” from a battery standpoint(editor wouldn’t let me use the word equivalent to “death”.

I have been able to get them charged up to 6. 30-6. 36 but they quickly decline to 6. 2. The fourth battery was dated 6/2020 and consistently charges to 6. 39 and will hold at 6. 30, which is healthy for a 6v Battery.

The next couple of months will tell the tale if the “old” new batteries will develop their full charge potential and hold it efficiently. If I hadn’t needed the batteries right at that point in time I would’ve asked/waited for newer batteries to be delivered to the store.

They have a year of full warranty coverage so I will give them some time to re-build their endurance. Service was great and the online store was easy to shop!!.

I bought a pair of these for my RV in May 2014, I installed them in June 2014 and as of July 3 2015 they won’t hold a charge. I gave them two stars and I suppose it’s possible, since the RV wasn’t really on the road much during that period, that there is something wrong with my charging circuit – I’ll be testing that out.

I run the RV every week to ensure the batteries stay charged. I also bought starting batteries at the same time and they seem to be working fine. It’s very disappointing that the warranty is “all or nothing” within just a 12-month period.

I’ll be checking the charging circuit more carefully and shopping around for replacements, but based upon my experience thus far I can’t recommend these. It seems others have had better experiences, so perhaps the problem is on my end.

The price is good, particularly considering the discounts, etc. Others mentioned the batteries having been old stock. Mine were dated 12/13, and purchased 5 months later. Hopefully you’ll have better luck with these than I did.