20 Best Cam For Peanut Port Heads (2022 Updated)

Have a single rack of totems, and in comparison to my C4s, I much prefer placing a totem. Easy to place, narrower head width, and just feel much more satisfied with my placements. Versatile cam, and also fits perfectly for horizontal placements.

The design of these cams is incredible. With the shape of the lobe allowing to act as an offset as well as a standard cam and replacement is perfect. My favorite cam is being DD?s Camelot there even more narrow making it easier to place in pins scars.

You need nothing else but these and micro nuts. As nacho would say ?They are the best?.

Have a pretty varied rack when it comes to cams from different companies. and the totem cams are just easier to place with confidence ! If you’re just getting into trad climbing look no further ! When you go to place other cams you just wish they were all totems !.

I installed this cam in a L98 SBC 350. (1985 C3 corvette) TPI fuel injection with 24b injectors. FlowTek 200 alum heads. The cam has a fantastic power band for the street. It can be idled down to 500 rpm with no problems.

Power came on at 1600 rpm and was strong to 5200 rpm before backing off some. The car had good torque and pushes in the seat all the way thru the rpm range. I highly recommend this cam. One note; I used 1.

5 roller rocker instead of the 1. 6.

I used this cam to replace a larger one that had 110 degree LSA. It has better street characteristics, better torque and response in normal street driving rpm range. It works well with stock converter in my sbc 400 with vortec heads, Th350, and 3.

73 gears. It has a noticeable idle and pulls to 5500. I’m very happy with the change.

My 4,500 lb ’65 Impala(4,700 lbs with my fat but in it) with a sbc 383 with this cam, Patriot performance heads, Howards retro Roller lifters, Scorpion 1. 6:1 roller rockers, Weiand Air Strike intake(basically their version of an RPM Air Gap) 850 Holley DP carb, cheap 383 rotating assembly of Speed-Pro hyper pistons, OC cast steel crank, 5.

7″ I-beam Ohio Crankshaft cap screw rods, Pioneer harmonic balancer in a factory 2 bolt block with main studs in front of a 700R4 with a TCI 3,000 stal with lockup, spinning a Chevy 12 bolt with 3. 07:1 rear gear ratio that I installed a used GM Posi unit in with 275/60R15 BFG drag radial tires.

This combo in this very heavy car with this cam does high 1. 8 60 ft times and the best to date of 13. 20 and 101 MPH in the QM! If I had the right valve springs I think I would probably be at least.

2 faster!!(so close to 12s!!!) Using the hydraulic flat tappet springs that came with the assembled heads I installed, need to upgrade those! This same engine in a 3,400 lb car I think would be well in the low 12s with the same drivetrain! I owe most of it to how well this cam makes gobs of low RPM torque to get my land barge moving and even revs to 6,000 with the wrong springs.

With this cam and the 700R4 I even get 15 MPG city and over 20 MPG highway!(keeping my foot out of it, which is hard to do at times!) Talk about best of both worlds with this cam!! So a great all around cam, street/strip, truck tow, MPG, daily driver and so on.

Who says you need a cam that doesn’t pull any vacuum at idle to run fast, this cam pulls 21 in. of vacuum at idle in my little sbc 383! More than enough to run any vacuum accessory ever made, probably all at once(LOL).

You don’t want this cam with to much gear though, its not needed. 9. 5:1 rear gear multiplication ratio(rear gear ratio X 1st gear ratio of trans 3. 07(rear gear ratio)x 3. 06(1st gear trans ratio)) is more than enough, if there is any more than that consider a cam with duration @.

050″. 5 out of 5 stars from me, very happy with how this cam runs in my 383, I highly recommend it. (just hope my endorsement doesn’t make the price go up because I have been thinking of buying anther one for my K-5 Blazer!) Maybe they’ll give me a discount but I won’t hold my breath.

LOL GLTA.

Excellent product, completely changed the way the car performs and sounds. Cam phaser limiters are a must and the cam boots are torque to yield, so they are one use only. Recommend using 4. 10 gears with these cams and after 3500 rpm it will pull you back into the seat.

On the install, you need the cam chain tool for the 4. 6 it’ll make you life easy. Do nit attempt this if you have no experience with in depth mechanical work. The ability to screw something up is super easy on this.

I originally bought this off another guy for $500 and couldn’t turn the deal down, since they were brand new. Had these suckers in for 7 months now and haven’t had a single issue and instead, just a ton of smiles and euphoria! Words can’t describe how beautiful they sound.

Took me about 6 hours overall. Don’t forget the mandatory can phaser limiters that Comp Cams also sells. Otherwise they will screw the motor up. But if you do everything correctly, you will have no issues.

Do your research on the job beforehand. Get a timing chain wedge. Get assembly lube, Zinc oil additive. etc to complete the job and do it right. Not a job for the most naive mechanic. Another note, everyone who says they provide upper RPM power is correct.

I would recommend tall gears, but my stock 3. 55s have been alright for now. Paired with JLT Series 3, 91 Oct Bama tune, 3″ H pipe with 3″catback and Dyno tested. Went from 295whp to 310. But with more mods and a Dyno tune, you’ll push more than that (throttle body, CMCDPs, etc) All in all, very VERY worth the money.

You won’t be disappointed! I’ve never been so attached to my ’08 GT/CS.

I purchased these cams with the FRPP intake manifold and I gotta say, the car sounds and performs fantastic now that they’re running a little smoother with everything and the tune is getting dialed in.

I did all the installs myself ( also installed the required Comp Phaser limited kit and new Phaser bolts that are both available from American Muscle ) The install wasn’t TOO bad and I had never tackled anything that intensive on an engine before ( let alone on my daily driver ) and even though the install wasn’t the worst thing to do, I think the peace of mind alone is worth the price of paying an experienced shop to do the install for you.

Everything ended up fine in my case, but I can see how that could have ended very badly and you have no one else to blame but yourself haha Some other things you will need to complete this install if you’re feeling brave and adventurous is a timing chain wedge and a bottle of cam assembly lube.

American Muscle does not sell a timing chain wedge and the cheapest I could find one was from Freedom racing. And the lube can be purchased at any auto parts store. Other than that, you don’t need to spend the money on a valve spring compressor.

Just loosen the bolts on the cam caps one at a time working from the inside out to relieve valve spring pressure. Leave the roller followers in place when you remove the stock cams. But yeah, great cams, and great service from AM as always!.

Hi, I have experienced excellent performance from this cam. After reading all the other reviews I know some of you guys had some not so good experiences. One thing it is crucial to run zinc in your breakin oil.

The cam will destroy itself within minutes if you don’t. A quick initial start is also crucial with any flat tappet cam. Can not start and stop then start and stop. Start right away and bring up the rpm to 2500 and hold it there 25 minutes.

No stopping. The stall speed of the converter has less to do with drive ability than does the carburetor idle mixture and proper ignition timing. This cam requires more initial advance and total advance than does a stock cam.

My biggest issue in the beginning was being able to keep the engine idle low enough so when I pop into drive it did not klunk hard. This was solved with opening up the idle mixture screws then lowering the idle adjust screw.

Important to not have those butterflys encroach into the transition slots. As soon as the carb is setup correctly the better results you will have. Once I got my carb correct the motor took on a whole different personality.

It began to idle nicely at 800 rpm and then stay there when ac was on or when I drop it into gear. I hope this helps somebody. Best wishes.

Apparently Comp Cams is still selling these cam and lifter kits with the old pictures, CAVEAT EMPTOR! The lifters are not the old style shown in the pictures with the hardened faces and stout retaining springs.

They are not what is shown in the pictures at all and are NOT made by Delphi if my research is correct. These are an off-shore/off brand and are not what we are used to for lifters from CC. I sent my kit back and will not be using their hyd flat-tappet lifter cam kits again unless they change back to a higher quality lifter.

Nothing but horror stories from people who have broken in their CC cams following the procedures to the letter and still, wiping a lobe or two at least. Not worth the trouble to build a new motor and then wipe it out immediately with a pile of garbage lifter.

C’mon, Comp Cams!! What happened to your quality we are all so familiar with from you?!?.