GXP is different – and better. Other systems rely on side-loaded bearings to eliminate play, causing bearing wear. GXP captures the left-side bearing between the spindle and the left crankarm and allows the drive-side bearing to float axially on the spindle.
Theres no need to side-load bearings during adjustment. No excess wear. And a much simpler installation. Just tighten to the proper specifications and you’re ready to roll, worry-free. GXP’s two bicycle-specific cartridge bearings and eight seals ensure a smooth, long-lasting ride.
Our new gutter seal system takes a two stage approach in directing contaminates away from the bearings providing longer bearing life. GXP’s gutter seal design also reduces friction, 35% less drag than the current gxp bottom bracket, improving rider feel and performance.
Gutter seal system has deeper installation tool grooves which provide stability and support while applying torque to the adapter cups. The design and material choice has dropped 15g out of the GXP bbs.
It works perfect with the SRAM Rival GXP Crankset (24mm steps down to 22mm on the NDS) and Cannondale CAAD8 threaded frame. It has removed all creaks, works a charm, and fits like a glove. Came with spacer which wasn’t needed, but no washers.
I have installed with a washer on either side and back to worry free riding. Also pleasantly surprised it came with a GXP dust shield. Package comes with GXP BB, Dust Shield, Spacer. Package does not come pre-greased, washers or bb tool adapter.
Very good price from Halfords. Really glad they stocked this as its one of SRAM’s most common bottom brackets. 4* because of the item itself: the bearings are great the finish is nice, but SRAM’s offset 24/22mm hollow axle design chews through bottom bracket bearings.
It’s just such a dumb issue to have to replace bearings every year or so.
Be sure to read the instructions from SRAM on how to install this. Particularly when and where to use spacers as SRAM and Shimano do it differently. Also, make sure your GXP crank is greased at the right spots and has any dust caps from old bottom brackets removed before you install it in the new BB.
Properly installed there will likely be a small gap on the drive side, but the crank will spin easily and there will be no freeplay. I replaced a Team BB on a used bike and found a spacer where it was not needed and a crushed drive side reducer/dust cap.
Shimano EXTERNAL Road Bike Bottom Bracket BB-RS500 Description Shimano is probably one of the world’s best-known companies in the bicycle sector. Hardly any other manufacturer is as widespread as the Japanese component manufacturer.
Since 1921, Shimano has developed countless innovations and product groups, such as the first commercial derailleur gears group for mountain bikes, the legendary XT. Shimano offers products in every segment, in every quality and in every price range – it is no surprise that they have been world market leaders in bicycle components for years.
It’s interesting to read some people’s views on this product and the unfortunate experience they have had. Mine have been excellent. To date i have put 18,000 miles on mine and it is still going fine.
During that time around every 5000 miles I dismantle the interior which can be difficult to do and re grease the bearings. I have also replaced the bearings on this model for a friend which i purchased on e bay for a fiver.
I have also put ceramic bearing in these. I think this is a superb product.
Hollowtech bottom brackets are great. Installation is easy. Bought as a replacement for my previous one, which had become audibly ‘crunchy’ after two years of hard riding. (Maybe 4000km’s) Would have bought a more expensive model but there were reports of no increase in longevity (not my experience, just hearsay).
The Italian one requires a different tool to install than the English thread one. Here is the run down. English BB requires 41mm 16 notch tool. Italian BB requires a smaller size tool, but it came with an adapter that fits a 44mm 16 notch tool.
That tool is meant for a mountain bike BB. The compound Shimano put on the thread were too much. It took so much torque to install it probably would have broke the plastic adapter. I had to take some off with a toothpick, then it was fine.
These bottom bracket cups are the premium choice for getting the most out of every pedal stroke. They feature smooth bearings that keep drag to a minimum and seals that keep debris out. Plus these BB cups press directly into the frame without having to be threaded in for reduced weight and enhanced durability.
Small details include easier to replace bearings should they wear out and new plastic end caps specific to each side of the BB.
Never had an issue with this bb. They wear at a normal pace, and they are relatively inexpensive to replace. Easy to install if you have the correct tools. Kinda difficult to remove without a rocket tool.
Get the right tools for the job and these BBs are solid.
So, I switched to SRAM components after 10 years with Shimano XTR, mosty for the super drive train. Part of the drive train, naturally, is the bottom bracket. These seem bulletproof and pretty lightweight.
I raced one of these for two seasons and only replaced it because I damaged it with to many spacers. Understand that the crank arms are tightened down on each other and are NOT supposed to put inward pressure onto the bottom braked sealed bearing cartridge.
If you do that, you’ll ruin the bearings. Example, my 2013 Kona Hei Hei Supreme takes the XX1cranks with no extra spacers, only the two red dust seals and waver thin ring. Tighten it down to the proper torque and you’re good.
This is the 4th SRAM GXP bottom bracket I’ve used. Two came as OEM on new bikes, the other two were replacements. Each of them went bad like clockwork around the 2,500 km mark (1,500 mi. ) After the first 3 SRAMs I bought a Chris King BB and I’ve used that one for over 12,000 km (7,500 mi) with no problems at all.
I got the grease injector and I lubricate it about every 3 months or 2,000 km. This fourth SRAM GXP BB that I got came on a new MTB as OEM equipment. Don’t you know! At 2,300 km it went out. I even removed the sealed bearings and serviced them when it started to make noise.
I don’t think the problem is the bearings themselves. it’s probably the cheap plastic cups. From past experience I anticipated this event and I had a new Chris King BB in my spare parts box, waiting for the day the cheap SRAM started screaming at me.
Chris King’s BB might cost 3 times what a SRAM GXP does but I was buying a new SRAM BB every 2-3 months. The CK has gone over a year and a half already and it’s still quiet and smooth like butter. Which would you say is “more economical” And the Chris King grease injector system makes it sooooo easy to maintain a bottom bracket!!!! So back to the SRAM GXP BB: There are way better choices.
I know Chris King is one. There may be others. CONS: Don’t Hold Up.
The FSA BB30 Road Bottom Bracket is 2 bearings that are directly pressed into the frame and seated against a cir-clips that are installed into machined grooves in the bottom bracket shell. To have a BB30 compatible shell on your frame the inner diameter needs to measure 42mm and have no threads on the inside.
This is a replacement for the standard FSA BB30 cartridge bearings that make up the bottom bracket. It comes with Wave spring, bearing covers, cir-clips and nylon adjustment washers. They will work with FSA BB30 Gossamer and Energy BB30 cranks.
Get more distance out of every pedal stroke with Bottom Bracket Assembly. It features sealed bearings for a smooth pedal stroke and impressive reliability. Plus, it presses directly into your frame’s BB30 bottom bracket shell for reduced weight and increased longevity.
The new bearings work exactly as you would hope, but the retaining rings have no little holes to grab with pliers when installing, so I ended up re-using the old rings instead. End result was great but I don’t know why you would omit those holes.
And then some. If you have the SRAM BB30 crankset, it has every spacer and cover you need. If you have any other crankset, you won’t need them all. Includes grease. Ceramic bearings kit for less than just ceramic bearings from other suppliers.
I purchased these bearings to replace the factory ones in a 5 year old mountain bike. I was hoping to find a higher quality bearing other than the poor quality Asia is know for, but was worried about fit.
They did their job but I do not have a lot of faith in bearings from Asia, other than Japan.
The FSA Pressfit 30 bottom bracket is suitable for carbon and aluminium race BB30 cranksets. The stainless steel bearings are pre-installed in nylon cups for reliable performance. Compatible with BB386 Evo, PF30, and Bbright frame standards.
Internal cable routing of Di2 and other electronic shift systems are not an issue, because extra space was calculated in the design.
Perfect fit in my Giant Contend SL upgrade project with FSA cranks. Much easier to press in than the aluminum housings. I will update as I wonder if the plastic cups will eventually start to creak. Fingers crossed so far, so good.
Exact replacement for my original BB, which I had on from the bike being new. Quick delivery, good price, and fitted without any problems. Been out with it 3-4 times and pleased. Thank you and will consider buying again.
Suitable for both road and mountain bike (MTB) use, this Race Face Cinch BB92 bottom bracket is engineered for maximum performance wherever your adventure leads you. It features a strong aluminium construction which makes it more than capable of handling all the abuse of a long day in the saddle.
Weighing in at only 69g (approx), this is the ultimate choice of upgrade for riders who want efficient crank rotations without any unnecessary weight holding you back.
My first (2015) RF PF92 30mm BB went 6,872 miles and almost 5 years with only a repacking on one side – it was still going strong and silent when I sent it back for a frame replacement. Replacement frame got a new, identical model RF BB which lasted 2,007 miles – 16 months – before the drive side bearing seized completely.
For reference, I don’t ride wet trails, rarely wet wash and don’t use compressed air for cleaning. Our trails are, however, prone to sand. Next RF BB (that was their two row model) failed in 120 miles – 3 weeks.
Post mortem on that one shows multiple individual bearing marks in the inner and outer races – very difficult to tell if there is any depth to them, but seems likely. Most recent RF BB (this single row model again) failed on the second ride.
It became very loud halfway through that ride. Crank pulled and very pronounced and persistent crunch verified on non-drive side. Frustrating that a product that originally served me so well can no longer be trusted.
(All 4 BBs were installed professionally, 1,2 and 4 by the same – very trusted – mechanic. 3rd was installed by another experienced mechanic while my regular mechanic was on vacation. ).
Upgraded from single row to double late last summer with high hopes – unfortunately same result: drive side races pitted and crunchy and left side has excessive play after about 750 miles. Neither side salvageable.
I’ve now had 5 RF BB’s in 3. 5 years. I would seriously pay double for ceramic and/or needle bearings with hardened steel races that lasted more than. 75 of a season. I’m 160lbs, live in CO where it’s not muddy or sandy and it’s been professionally installed each time.
I think the problem is the 30mm Cinch system doesn’t allow for big enuf bearings and the RF spec bearing is too low a quality for the load. Forget asking for a warranty as they don’t stand behind this product.
Yeti no longer uses the PF92 probably for good reason. I just heard from my LBS that Wheels Mfg apparently sells a BB/PF92 30mm Cinch unit – that will be my next move if such an animal exists. Otherwise, love my Next cranks.
Very disappointed in these RaceFace BSA 30 bottom brackets with a 100mm shell when used on my Fatbike. The factory installed original lasted 5 months, and the warranty replacement sent has already started acting up after only 3 months of use.
There are two design issues that Raceface needs to address and change, the first is to use angular contact bearings instead of the radial bearings, so that any sideloads don’t destroy them, as its virtually impossible not to have sideloading espeically on the BSA BB.
The second issues is they need to make the bearings out of Stainless Steel (440?) so that they don’t rust and corrode so easily, or atleast offer a SS option, especially for Fatbike applications or for those who ride in wet and winter conditions, as as its impossible to keep them greased well enough.
The FSA BB30 MTB Bottom Bracket is 2 bearings that are directly pressed into the frame and seated against a cir-clips that are installed into machined grooves in the bottom bracket shell. To have a BB30 compatible shell on your frame the inner diameter needs to measure 42mm and have no threads on the inside.
This is a replacement for the standard FSA BB30 cartridge bearings that make up the bottom bracket. It comes with bearing covers and cir-clips. This BB will work with FSA SLK, Afterburner, V-Drive, Comet and Gravity BB30 cranks.
Machined aluminum bearing cups thread in to a standard BSA frames. Includes replacement dust covers and seals. CNC-machined aluminum shell for precise bearing alignment and frame fit. Replaceable ABEC-5 Angular Contact Enduro sealed bearings.
Angular contact ball bearings are particularly suitable for carrying combined axial and radial loads. Made in the USA.
My new bike came with an external shimano bb. 2 weeks in it started to creek. Instead of paying my LBS $120 to replace one of these every year or so, I paid $85, and the replacement bearings are $40/pair.
If you’re going to keep your bike for a while, this is the way to go. Makes bearing replacement very easy and cheap. No more week+ waits to get a bb replaced.
Set this up on my BSA threaded bottom bracket with a 30mm spindle to run SRAM carbon cranks. I did not use the included inner dust cover because it caused drag. I did need to pick up a couple of extra 1mm spacers to make sure there was no play.
Takeahikeshop. com took care of me from start to finish. FTW!.
I had previously replaced my SRAM BB with a like-for-like but when it wore out again I looked at alternatives. Although this unit is double the price it has serviceable bearings and other Wheels Mfg products got great reviews.
It was easy to fit, although I knocked off a point for the fast that the instructions are a little cryptic and Wheels did not reply to an email I sent asking them questions. Time will tell if the unit has longevity, but it feels good on the bike, robust and smooth running.
The new Ekar bottom bracket is designed specifically for the rigors of all-road and gravel riding and racing. It features the robust double-protection of external sealing ring design with a fiberglass polyamide central tube to reduce the harmful ingress of water, mud and grit.
The bottom bracket mates with the external stainless steel bearings – which are attached to the crank arms as an integral unit rather than the BB cups for greater size and easier maintenance access – and sits over a stiff, strong inner axle spindle, delivering performance that is smooth, fluid and predictably consistent from the get-go.
Thanks to the ProTech sealing system, it stays that way, however and wherever you ride. Ekar bottom bracket options offer broad compatibility in a full range of threaded and PressFit applications. Patented dual-sealing ProTech technology securely connects the two semi-axles inside the bottom bracket, and protects the BB bearings from ingress of water and mud, providing longevity of high performance, even in the worst riding conditions.
A gravel-orientated development from Campagnolo’s innovative and proven Ultra-Torque technology, the ProTech system’s central Hirth joint features self-centring and self-aligning frontal teeth located in the middle of the crank where the ends of the integrated semi-axles meet.
The axles are fixed together with a single, protected oversized bolt, their precise pairing can event overcome the fractional misalignment that some carbon frames can include thanks to the tiny differences in tolerance in their manufacture.
The ProTech crank system’s torque transmission is as efficient as a single piece axle, and it’s lighter. And, being better protected than other systems, it is also more durable. Oversized stainless steel bearing sit on the crank, outside the BB shell, for maximum smoothness and strength thanks to greater axle rigidity from the increased axle diameter.
After a LOT of research I found that this Centaur BB fits my 15 year old bike perfectly. The issue was that the bike has a Centaur triple crank set (no longer made) and there are two (2) Centaur BB’s available (with a LOT of looking, that is.
) that fit the triple. The key has to do with the size of the downtube – if it is the old size, about 28 MM, then the proper BB is the 111mm. I have a 32mm tube, so that one required the 115mm BB to achieve the correct line.
Now, everything is running smooth and quiet once again. But it took hours of research to find out this info.
A variant of the external GXP bottom bracket, PressFit cuts weight by up to 40 grams and eases installation by allowing you to press the bearing cups into the frame instead of threading them. Requires no change to the crank spindle length and diameter.
Fits SRAM or Truvativ Cranksets to a BB86 (86. 5mm) BB Shell. Available in Standard or Ceramic Bearings.
Works great. Buy the Park Tools BBT-30. 4 tool to easily remove your old BB. You will need to buy a big bolt and nut (at the local Big Box) to use with this tool to press in the new BB. Good tool are an investment, are Park Tools are great.
Made to press right into your bike this Shimano BB92 Bottom Bracket will mate your Shimano HollowTech crankset to any frame equipped with a BB92 bottom bracket shell. It comes with two steel cartridge bearings pressed into composite cups.
The cups increase the outside diameter of the assembly to 41mm to match the I. D. of the frames’ bottom bracket shell. Being part of the new press-fit standard there is also a 1. 75mm thick outer lip that provides a positive stop for the cups when you press them into place.
Shimano includes their standard plastic O-ringed inner sleeve to protect against water damage should any find its’ way inside your frame. It also uses black plastic dust shields that snap into the inner race of each bearing.
The Shimano SM-BB92-41B is an absolute joy to frame designers looking for a little more room for new designs in seat/down tubes and rear suspension layout. Where a typical mountain bike has a 68 or 73mm bottom bracket shell width, a BB92 equipped bike has a shell that measures 86.
5mm wide. A BB92 shell also lacks internal threads and has a 41mm inside diameter. Dura-Ace, with improved ergonomics, ensures top notch performance for advanced cyclists and pros on the peloton.
NOT that easy to install. Why? Because Shimano doesn’t include the required adapter part (Shimano TL-FC24) for the bottom bracket tool and most LBSs don’t carry it. The product information page should specify this.
As is, you wait for the BB93 part; you get the part; you can’t install the part; you look up what’s missing; you order’s the part that’s missing; you wait for the part that’s missing; then you’re able to install the BB.
Oh, and for $8 or $10 you get a cheap, plastic BB adapter that strips quickly. Way to go, Shimano.
These bottom brackets are tough but they do wear out over time, fortunately they are fairly inexpensive and easy to install. I’ve had both the XT and the XTR on my bikes and honestly, unless you are sponsored by Shimano or saving a couple of grams will make you feel better about your bike, the XT is more than enough.
XT is like the F-150 (or Tacoma) of component line ups, maybe not the fanciest in the stable, but really good at most everything and incredibly dependable.
I bought this to replace the failing bottom bracket on my GT Timberline 1. 0 (2013). I can state that this bottom bracket does work, and fits. However, my 1 star review is coming directly from the packaging.
Now, I cannot be certain if this product was new or used, but the side ring on it was crooked and VERY hard to get off; the plastic wasnt sealed; and the unit was falling out of the cardboard box from Shimano.
This very likely can be a new product that was just assembled incorrectly from the factory, with a bad packaged box and the minimal packaging that it was shipped in from MEC didnt support the box together.
Needed to get a different size BB for a new Shimano crankset. Moving from a 113mm to 122. 5mm. The instructions for the crankset suggested this 122. 5mm UN300 BB. A plus is the threaded parts are aluminum, but be sure to grease the threads to prevent seizing.
However, after installation, the front derailleur cannot shift fully to the largest chainring. The derailleur maxes out and cannot pull the chain far enough to prevent the chain from rubbing against the derailleur at high gears.
I’m not sure what the steel ring on the drive side is for. I don’t know if this is preventing me from fully installing the crankset onto the spindle. Hopefully, I’m not diving down a compatibility rabbit hole.
All parts are Shimano compatible (or so they say).
Typical Shimano quality at a competitive price. Read previous reviews before buying that compared the UN300 to the now discontinued Shimano UN55. Previous reviews say the UN55 was a better bottom bracket with better bearings and seals but with this no longer being available this model appears to be the next best square taper bottom bracket.
It looks real quality and if this is anything to go by and it performs and last as good as it looks then it’s still good value for money.
The Truvativ 2012 Powerspline 113 x 63E/73mm Bottom Bracket is their entry level entry level Cross Country/Road and trekking system. Featuring a strong and light heat-treated chromoly 12 spline spindle with sealed cartridge bearings, you may confuse it for a more expensive bottom bracket.
The original didn’t last too long so not that hopeful with this one. However it’s all that’s available without upgrading the whole drivetrain to Shimano, or going for a Sram Dub bottom bracket with a new higher level compatible chainset.
Tredz is always great to deal with though and it arrived promptly.
Sadly this was part of the bike i acquired – replaced initial one as became very noisy, within 2 months needed a new one as it started to make gritty noise again – not smooth. This will be ok for limited / dry biking but don’t expect to hit the trails hard with this.
I’m looking to upgrade the BB to something more reliable.
Goods arrived promptly and Tredz had already contacted me to let me know they would be delayed a couple of days. Replacing the bottom bracket is a fairly lengthy job that needs specialist tools, but not that complicated.
Use anti-seize compound on the threads so that it will not be impossible to remove. I replaced all my brake pads too. Now the bike rides like new!.
I purchased the Shimano Claris 2450 50t/39t Crankset on closeout. I purchased the BB ES-25 Bottom Bracket because according to the Shimano Dealer manual, this was the Bottom Bracket that fits the Claris Crankset.
Shimano ES25 fits perfectly. While the shell is 68 mm wide to fit a standard Eng 68 mm bottom bracket frame, the part comes in 4 spindle lengths. The total length of the bottom brackets including the different spindle options are 113 mm, 118 mm, 121 mm, and 126 mm.
I purchased the 118 mm spindle option. Purchase the Spindle Width option recommended for your frame. If you have no documentation regarding which spindle length should fit on your bike, measure the spindle on your current Bottom Bracket.
If this is an upgrade to a new Crank, then consider the width of your rear fork, and where your cassette is placed on your rear fork. For wide Cassettes on newer bikes use the wider 121 or 126 options, while for older bikes with narrower forks and cassettes use the narrower 113 or 118 models.
This will best align your Chain between your Crankset and your Rear Wheel Cassette. It will remove “Chain Throw” reducing wear on your front Chainrings and your Cassette Sprockets ;).
From what I’ve heard, these have been replaced by the Shimano UN-300. These are highly durable units. They’re not the smoothness out of the box, but that’s due to the amount of sealing these have. The drag will improve over time.
My only problem with these is the flange on the left side cup. That’s a horrible design feature. You can’t get much chainline adjustment out of these, if at all. If your bottom bracket is slightly wider than normal, good luck.
The new UN-300 is cheaper and more versatile, thanks to the un-flanged left cup. Time will tell how durable those will be, but it probably won’t be bad.
I bought this as a replacement for my Schwinn road bike that originally came with the cup and cone style bearings. After doing some searching, I ran across this bottom bracket, which came in many sizes, so I ordered the one that most closely matched my factory one.
Upon initial inspection, it seems to be well made, has sealed bearings that don’t require adjustment, and all parts are made of metal. It even came with new bolts for the crank arms, which seem to be of a high grade steel.
It installed flawlessly, and feels quite smooth! I have maybe 100 miles on it now, and it continues to run smoothly and quietly. Will definitely consider another one in the future.
The new SRAM DUB crank standard, built on a 28. 99 spindle, allows for a more contamination resistant BB design, while retaining the ultra-efficient & long-lasting qualities CeramicSpeed Bottom Brackets are known for.
With an integrated dust cover for all models, a snug & secure fit that also fully protects the face of the bearing delivers exceptional performance without any sacrifices. CeramicSpeed hand-built bearings carry the load from crank to frame with un-paralleled durability & efficiency.
At the time of writing November 2021 the recommended Park tools BBT47 is discontinued and it’s replacement is not available for sale yet. I did identify an Icetoolz bb tool which I had to order from overseas at vast expense to fit this beautiful bottom bracket.
I finish the installation and tidy up to find the ceramic speed box is still heavy, I find ceramic speeds own bb tool under the foam. Thanks Ceramic Speed, next time put it in the specification please.
I have to say at first the project was delayed to BB removal, none of Ceramicspeeds fault at all, more like the bike design company (I wont mention names) decided to change some of the models mid year making it impossible to find the right steps to remove the BB.
After a lot of hunting and searching for removal steps, your support guy Paul S. Was extremely helpful in guiding me through the entire process of removal and getting the BB installed properly. This installed flawlessly with no issues! Thank you CeramicSpeed!.
However jaded you’ve become to the ever-constant changes in bottom bracket standards, the T47 threaded bottom bracket provides numerous benefits by providing custom frame builders and smaller bike companies with a creak-free, precisely aligned shell boasting the extra stiffness of oversized press fit shells.
This particular Wheels Mfg T47 Threaded Bottom Bracket works with frames using the T47 threaded bottom bracket standard and accommodates a number of road and mountain bike cranksets with 30, 22/24, and 24-millimeter spindle diameters.
You’ll find 30-millimeter, SRAM GXP 22/24-millimeter, and Shimano 24-millimeter versions catering to a number of different cranksets. Each T47 bottom bracket is compatible with bottom bracket shell widths of 68 to 132 millimeters, most typically used in shell widths greater than 73 millimeters.
Every bottom bracket has machined aluminum cups with internal bearings that are easily serviced or replaced. In specific, Wheels Mfg uses Enduro Angular Contact Bearings designed for bottom brackets by spreading forces over a larger surface area to decrease friction and minimize wear.
Additionally, you’ll find an included sleeve that fits between the cups to keep out dirt and grime, as well as keep internal wires from rubbing against crank spindles.
The Wheels Manufacturing Threaded “Pressfit” is a right mouthful and the available options on their website don’t help either. Coupled with a bitter tasting accessory list required for installation I can see many opting for a far cheaper Shimano option.
Having never had an issue with a Shimano product it took some personal convincing to try the Wheels BB but a new bike build was the ideal opportunity and I must say it’s a thing of beauty. Pressfitting the drive side and threading the non drive side whilst requiring 2 different tools is the only negative, the end result is stiffer than anything I’ve experienced before and also smoother than anything I’ve experienced.
Having heard nothing but Pressfit horror stories, I’ve had no issues whatsoever. I’ve not had the pleasure of riding in the rain yet, having said that, I’d be amazed if any noises became present.
I am only providing feedback based on value, initial quality and installation. The price is good for this BB, you could get something cheaper, but you may not want to. Overall initial impression of quality, excellent.
This is a nice looking, well made BB. As for the installation, it could not be easier. Press in one side, then screw in the other, until tight. The manufacturer provides detailed instructions on their website.
URL is available on an enclosed card, sent with the BB. The ability to tighten the BB should solve the unbearable Pressfit BB woes. Once installed and after cranks put on, it spins smooth. First rides were very promising, smooth, no noise or creaks.
Will have to put it through the wringer to test longevity.
Went on a couple of rides already, and even got it wet in an instance and there does not seem to be an issue so far, whereas my Praxis steel PF BB got rusty after a couple of puddles and developed play under force in the non-drive cup and kept coming loose in the frame.
Also got some adhesive to bond it in the frame but fortunately, for now, that was not needed. Applied Park Tool grease directly in carbon shell and Teflon grease on the BB threads. Fingers crossed and hope this solves others’ similar issues!.
The CeramicSpeed BSA DUB bottom bracket convinces by its design. It enables you to connect a 29 mm axle, such as that of SRAM, with a narrow diameter and 68 mm wide bottom bracket housing with thread.
The bearings are mounted in the bearing shells, which are then screwed into the bottom bracket housing. These bearings are either standard or coated bearings. Both have super round, super smooth CeramicSpeed balls made of hardened steel.
The coated version has a metallic coating on the raceways that makes them even harder and smoother, resulting in longer life and lower resistance. CeramicSpeed standard bearings typically have a frictional resistance of 0.
3-0. 4 watts per set. This is in the range of 75% resistance reduction compared to standard bottom bracket bearings. This is due to ball bearings that are 100% smoother and 15% harder than their ceramic competitors.
The bearings last at least three times as long as other bearings.
One of the easiest BB installations I’ve done. Ceramic saving me 10 watts or less isn’t going to affect the performance of an amateur like me, but knowing I have a high quality BB that should last much longer than steel is worth it.
Plus when the rest of my bike is Carbon with electronic shifting, using a dropper post that’s activated electronically with a 3-D printed saddle attached, it would be odd to have one low spec component, especially when that component is so central to how the bike operates and how I interact with and power the bike.
Ceramic BB’s might not be for everyone, but if you’re riding a $5-10k bike, it’s hard to justify keeping one important component just average when the rest of the bike is top shelf. Plus it makes me service and maintain the BB, ensuring an even longer lifespan.
If the extra money spent on a ceramic BB was going to prevent me from pursuing another upgrade that would improve performance more pragmatically, I’d forego the ceramic BB. But if you’re already driving a Lamborghini, why use some cheap after market part in the engine even if it won’t necessarily affect how long it takes me to get to work? If you get a high quality ceramic BB like Ceramicspeed, it just makes more sense for both practical longevity as well as component spec consistency.
I was skeptical for ages on ceramic items and their effect on my riding experience and bank balance or what others may say but after finally taking the chance and picking up the BB and Jockey Wheels for a new bike, I wont be going back to ordinary any time soon.
Take the jump, you wont look back. The feeling of free speed is epic. These are extraordinary and this is after riding Dura-ace forever.
CeramicSpeed bearings are the best, no argument. but for this particular size, a mega-exo style, CS uses 25mm ID bearings for a 24mm crank spindle. Huh? Not sure why they don’t make a properly sized bearing, like FSA and many others, but they don’t.
So they take up the slack with a nylon shim. it’s flimsy and it’s a fairly tight fit, so you run the risk of wrinkling the shim. it’s a somewhat Rube Goldberg setup. and CS should definitely include a few extra shims in the box; but they don’t.
Don’t be so cheap, CeramicSpeed! When someone pays $370 for a BB, you can certainly throw a few extra shims in the box. IMO, the shim will “flatten” over time and should be replaced periodically.
The external bottom bracket is available with two different bearing options. All common systems are covered with this upgrade unit, making it ideal for Shimano, Race Face and Truvativ (extra conversion kit required).
The machined aluminium cups hold either full stainless steel cartridge bearings, or ceramic bearings in stainless races. These custom, Swiss made bearings are double sealed which gives much greater life span than stock units.
They are also replaceable. The bearings are made by INA and have been designed to run directly on the crankset axle, without the use of shims or spacers – again increasing life and reliability. The Hope Stainless Brottom Bracket unit is suitable for 68 & 73mm shell width’s.
Standard 6 colours are available on cups – red, blue, silver, black, gold and gunsmoke, with the centre tubes being black on the stainless and gunsmoke on the ceramic.
Well, let’s kick this off: full disclosure, I haven’t ridden the bike with this bottom bracket yet. The wheels are currently being built and it’s difficult to hop on the bike in my Park stand and pretend I’m riding because I keep hitting the floor.
Ok, serious time. As the other reviewer mentioned, this BB deffo requires the Hope specific bottom bracket tool, HTT188. Since I don’t have access to a waterjet, I simply bought the tool from Jenson for a whole $20, which really isn’t all that expensive.
More fun stuff; I was tossing this BB in my WFO and went Next SL on my MTB to keep the WT DWN. This bottom bracket will play with the Next SL cranks, but it requires a nanny made by Race Face. My bottom bracket shell width is 73 mm, so I required a part number F10010 shim kit.
The super secret about that kit is you don’t need all three pieces, just a single 2. 5 mm shim. So yeah. Hopefully this BB doesn’t fail like the 30mm RF Cinch BBs are rumored to do. See you on the trails.
Originally purchased this from tweeks it didnt arrive, Start Fitness delivered a new one next day! totally got me out of a whole. the bracket itself is silky smooth no matter what i throw at it feels like its blueprinted to the bike.
I am stumped, watched all of Nick’s videos, read all of Hope’s manuals. The plastic outer seals actually do not seal anything, the opposite they attract dirt, gravel dust and get noisy. After one ride on the local trail which is a mix of dirt, gravel and pavement and BB is crunchy, just one ride.
Dust from gravel gets into microgrooves, same where seal goes into and now seal that does not seal rubs on the gravel dust/sand/dirt. What an messy incompetent design. I had Shimano BB for 7 years and not once it needed service and it was quiet as it can be.
There are a few different types of bottom brackets for road bikes, but the most common are cartridge bottom brackets. These bottom brackets are easy to install and maintain, and they offer a very smooth ride.
However, they are also more expensive than other types of bottom brackets.
Other types of bottom brackets include threaded bottom brackets and press-fit bottom brackets. Threaded bottom brackets are less expensive than cartridge bottom brackets, but they can be more difficult to install and maintain.
Press-fit bottom brackets are the newest type of bottom bracket, and they offer a very tight fit and a very smooth ride. However, they can be difficult to install and are not compatible with all frame sizes.
A white V-neck T-shirt for women is a classic wardrobe staple that can be dressed up or down. It’s versatile, comfortable, and always in style. You can wear it with jeans, a skirt, or shorts. It can be dressed up with a blazer or scarf, or worn more casual with sneakers or sandals. A white…
A cargo box is an accessory that can be added to a vehicle to increase the amount of storage space. For the Subaru Outback, the cargo box is a storage container that attaches to the roof of the vehicle. It is typically made of durable materials such as plastic or metal, and it usually has…
As hair color for blue eyes can vary depending on personal preference, skin tone, and a number of other factors. However, some general tips for choosing hair color for blue eyes include opting for cool tones such as platinum blonde, ash brown, or black; avoiding colors that are too close to your skin tone, as…
There are a variety of cases available for the Samsung Galaxy S5, depending on the level of protection and style that the user is looking for. Some of the more popular cases include the Otterbox Defender Series, which offers a high level of protection from drops and scratches, and the LifeProof Fre, which is designed…
All terrain tires are designed to provide a good balance of off-road and on-road performance. They typically have deeper tread than regular passenger tires and are more resistant to punctures and damage from rocks and other debris. All terrain tires can improve traction in mud, sand, and snow, and can make driving on rough roads…
There are a few different types of backpacking chairs for big guys. Some are made specifically for larger people, while others are just regular chairs that are big enough to accommodate a larger person. Some chairs are made with a bigger seat and a higher back, to make sure that big guys are comfortable. Other…