20 Best 20W50 Oil For Hydrostatic Transmission (2022 Updated)

I’ve honestly used a number of different oil brands in my F250 now; there’s really only a few brands that can go the distance with my twin turbocharged F250 Super Duty! All the others seem to break down and lose their viscosity rather quickly! Castor is my go-to for my trucks oil every time to keep that motor protected and allow it to run at the highest peak it can possibly run on at all times! Of course the only place that never lets me down in knowing that what I need for my truck, including the motor oil when it’s calling for it! Is Oreilly’s every time! Hands down no doubt about it!!.

I use this in my Kawasaki 25hp mower engine! I am a small engine mechanic and Kawasaki told me that I should run 20w-50 because of my climate, in the 3 years that I have had this motor, I tried the Kawasaki oil and another racing oil recommended by a local race shop.

I learned that added zinc would cause it to run cooler. I decided to try the valvoline vr1 racing oil and I could tell an immediate difference in the sound of the motor, I could always here the tappets with the other oils and sometimes my oil pressure light would flash, but not with the valvoline.

I could tell immediately that it was lubricating so much better, with hardly any tappet noise, and the oil light goes out ever before it starts. I’ve used valvoline in my vehicles for years and never had any problems.

So now I use the VR1 20w-50 racing oil with zinc I’m my John Deere 757 zero turn! it’s Oil!!!.

Any engine that has sliding-surface-type (cam-to-lifters) valve gear needs zinc to avoid premature wear/failure. Back in the 1900’s, most oil used to have it, but when roller-follower engines became dominant it was phased out.

(+EPA regs. ) I use it in my Studebakers, and have had no problems. This is good motor oil for classic car or severe-duty applications.

I have used Pennzoil on and off most of my life. Was always my go to 30W lawn mower oil but after buying a Dodge Hellcat that uses the super premium Pennzoil synthetic I have become more and more of a fan.

I recently purchased a used 08 Police Crown Vic with 140K miles. Was fleet serviced every 4-5K with records and the engine inside is still very clean, I don not know what oil was used prior to my purchase but it was changed as per spec.

I had a dealer do my first oil change with recommended weight Synthetic blend Ford brand oil 5-20. Now 3K miles later I change to this tried and true Pennzoil conventional 5-20 oil and I notice the normal start up top end rattle noise is gone to almost gone.

Strange, to actually hear a difference in a engine based on brand of oil surprised me after 40+ years of changing my oil especially moving from a blend to full conventional oil on a high mile engine.

I remember my late father telling me back in the early 70’s to always use a good Pennsylvania grade motor oil. Father recommended, Dad approved!.

This is a great oil that I went back to since todays synthetics make most engines tick like crazy. Also was using a full synthetic on a newer engine with only 15,000 miles on it that had to have the tranny pulled due to a bad leaking rear main seal.

Hopefully Pennzoil will stop the leak with the new main seal ? Lost faith somewhat on other synthetics. Oh, and I need to correct some of the old timers on here. Pennzoil is NOT Pennsylvania Crude. They are located in Texas.

Where have you old timers been ? In a cave ?.

Developed noise in the power steering pump on a Ford freestar. Changed hose’s, flushed all original fluid, pulled a vacuum numerous times. Tried ford mercon, then mercon v. Different brands, barsleak trans fix, and even amsoil signature.

Last time trying I used royal purple and it worked. I very rarely whines when I first start it and never while driving, no matter how hot it gets. Made me a believer.

Royal Purple. That really is all that NEEDS to be said. I used to use another brand of synthetic lubricants exclusively. I recently decided to try this brand and I am pretty sure that IT will be my new exclusive choice.

I DO think it’s pricey (just like the “other” brand was compared to conventional oils) but I see it as buying insurance. I have a 1994 Chevy Blazer with almost 200 K miles on it. I would love to get another 200 K or more.

I guess we’ll see.

Ever since 2003 I have always used Royal Purple products in my vehicles and have not been disappointed. I use it in my engine, transmission, front and rear differentials, and transfer case.

I like AutoZone, but I went to buy full synthetic and preferably high mileage full synthetic oil. The shop had no 5w20 synthetic, and of course it was the sale product etc. I asked at the display near check out about more, and got pointed to the back.

I floundered around in the back of the store, found this product as a weak substitiute, asked again at checkout and got mostly shrugs. Nobody seemed to know why 5w20 was so scarce nor had any idea on where to get it.

I’ll try a more friendly helpful store next time.

I’ve used this for my 2005 Chevy Tahoe when it had 150k mile and now I just picked it up for my 2013 Dodge Charger v6 with a little over 100k miles. I wouldn’t do full synthetic unless you got 180-200k miles so anything under that, I recommend “Synthetic Blend!” And valvoline is my only choice when it comes to oil! I also combine it with an STP high mileage filter too!.

I appreciate O’Reilly Auto Parts’ (OAP) reputable services and products! The oil I needed was surprisingly more expensive than my 25+ years experience with O’Reilly’s generally lower-priced sales. At the same time, knowing I needed the oil at that specific time, I was grateful to see OAP had it in stock-especially when other competitors didnt.

One of the workers graciously provided me a sale price too. The price was still higher than competitors but much lower than the initial price. Much lower than the price of gas to drive elsewhere too.

Thank you O’Reilly Auto Parts for meeting the mark yet again!.

Using this for last 2000 on my 2000 ZX-9R which I flushed w Motul flush prior to the Lucas w K&N filter. The oil after mostly longer rides is still pretty clear and clean in the oil window. I am expecting to get 3000km-4km easy out of it.

I do not believe this oil is semi either, hard to find info but believe it is conventional. However it has held up well and bike sounds great on it engine does not allow to many new noises. Sitting at 47300km.

I will probably drain and oil in itself and retain the filter till next drop getting 6-7km on it. Then I may move to Maxima semi or full synthetic 10w40. For now this 10w40 Lucas is working well and no consumption either.

This oil has reduced engine noise in my 2009 KLX250s! I have religously used Kawasaki OEM oil and it has done ok. After switching to Lucas oil the bike shifts easier and has had lower running temperature.

I rather use an oil that exceeds the minimum than use oil that only meets the standard.

I have two very old cars: 1979 Granada and a 1982 Pontiac Bonneville Brougham. I have been advised that although the new synthetic oil is great for newer cars, synthetic oil is not the best for older cars.

Older cars were designed for conventional oil and it is now impossible to find at auto parts stores. Thankfully, you can still get conventional oil online. Walmart had the best (lowest) price AND if I had the oil sent to the store for pickup, I would get FREE shipping.

Can’t beat that!!!! And I received it the next day!! Amazon wouldn’t do that unless I was a member of Prime. In this purchase, Walmart beats Amazon!!.

I like this oil in my Kaw KLR 650. Quieted the shifts down, seems to run fine. We’ll see how the mileage changes, if any. Only downside is the BP ownership of the Castrol brand. After the crap they did to the Gulf Coast, don’t know that I’ll buy it again.

Wanted Rotella but Walmart is discontinuing the 20w50 for some reason it appears.

If your classic vehicle has a flat tappet camshaft, this (or ZDDP Additive) is a must! It contains the zinc that has been removed from all motor oil in the USA since SL because zinc prematurely damages catalytic converters.

My nephew destroyed the camshaft in a few thousand miles in his classic dodge using a premium grade of high mileage oil (SN).

I’ve been using royal purple for a while. Just did an oil change at 7500kms to get ready for camping season and the old oil looked brand new. It didn’t have the purple colour but had a nice amber colour, I can’t believe how well this oil holds up.

I am very particular about doing oil changes 5-7500kms because it’s cheap, easy maintenance. This oil can probably go triple that number but to each his own. PS, anyone stating this oil improves gas mileage is wrong.

They either needed an oil change BADLY or they were using the incorrect grade. Motor oil alone cannot increase fuel economy as it has nothing to do with air/fuel mixture in a 4 stroke fuel injected engine.

So, when looking for a good oil to use when doing a DIY project why not go with what the manufacturer uses? AutoZone offers this product at a great price, and different size options. I’ve got an ‘04 Expedition with over 300k miles on it.

I’d like to think regular maintenance, and this great products like this from AutoZone got me there. I’m confident the same good practices will yield the same results on my ‘16 Expedition. For those that may be hesitant to do it yourself don’t be afraid to ask your local AutoZone parts guy what you need to get the job done.

The guys at the Surprise, AZ location off of Bell Rd and Grand Ave are the best!!!.

I like everything about this purchase. The price was about $12. 00 cheaper than Amazon and it was delivered the next day to my door. The young lady that delivered it was very professional and nice. She helped make everything perfect.

According to maintenance book guide, My Mazda 3 needs 7. 9 quarts new fluids. drain off old fluids as much as you can. My old fluid come out about 3. 5 quarts. Refill 3. 5 quarts, run up the engine and drive around a few miles, drain off a quart or two, repeat the same two to three times.

One gallon should work Ok, two gallons is enough to drain the most old fluid out. The benefits: Get the fluid from your local store is cheaper and quicker than from other online stores Support your local economy; the city and the employees Ask the store to leave it in front the door so you can pick up yourself without get inside.

I started using Klotz in my Kart engines in 1970 and later in my Dirt Bikes as I segued into Motocross. I have tried other premix oils over the years, some with decent results, but I’ve always come back to Klotz as nothing has impressed me more when it comes to what I’ve seen during countless tear downs and inspections over the last 50 years.

Traditionally I have used Klotz Techniplate or Super Techniplate on my 250 2-Strokes @32:1 with outstanding results, but when we started riding 125’s again, I gave Klotz R-50 @32:1 a try as it’s meant for higher RPM use.

The results have been phenomenal. Little to no wear on the piston & cylinder, super clean combustion chamber and no deposits on the power valve! I really don’t care how my premix oil smells as I’m only interested in performance/results, but it’s nice that Klotz R-50 smells great as well.

Try some today!.

I have been running this in my Aprilia for years with no negative results. I recently purchased a 2022 KTM 300xcw and lo and behold it uses the same weight. I decided to use the Motul 7100 15w50 I had left over from my Ape in it.

What a difference! Finding neutral? No problem! After about 5 hours of run time I switched back to Motorex as recommended by KTM and it’s back to being hard to find neutral again. 10/10 would recommend the 7100 for everyone, and if you have a KTM I urge you to try it.

Best of all it is much more affordable than Motorex.

My Suzuki SFV650 used to do the weird thing where it doesn’t shift from neutral into first unless you roll it forward and stomp the shifter. Just put this oil in and it goes right into first every time.

Now I can let my clutch fingers rest at long red lights without worrying about holding up traffic trying to get in gear once the light changes. Highly recommended.

My father ran the Pennzoil 50w Racing Oil in his front engine dragster when I was a kid. We never had any oil related failures running methanol in Crower injected big block Chevrolet engines. I miss the Pennzoil win lights that were at the Medford Oregon drag strip.

My grandfather his 1976 GMC pickup that is still in the family always has had Pennzoil 10w-30 or straight 30W. Last time I changed the oil the milage was 350k it ran great just burned a little oil through the valve giudes.

Original 350 small block engine never rebuilt all stock. Under the valve covers no sludge clean as a whistle last time I adjusted the valves. The oil on the 1976 GMC has been religiously changed every 3000 miles or every 3 months whatever comes first.

My favorite and the best oil in the world is the 25W-50 GT. The Racing oil has been my choice in Chevrolet in straight six cylinder and V8 engines winter or summer it protects. I run 25W-50 in the engine of my 2000 Harley Davidson twin cam and in the engine of my 2007 883 Sportster.

I change oil every 2500 to 3000 miles in the bikes it comes out a dark carmel color not dark black like the competition oils. The horrible 10% ethanol gasoline does not seem to be a problem with this oil.

I have never seen sludge or yellow gunk from moisture in my oil tank on either Harley when I service one. Also the Harleys and they are my main source of transportation I do not own a car or pickup anymore.

Bot b bikes get rode in rain, snow, or all weather. I use Pennzoil Type F automatic transmission fluid in the primary of both motorcycles with no problems no sludge and they shift perfectly with a nice clutch engagement.

I like this oil because it is pretty cool to be 36 years old and changing my oil using the same oil my dad did with him handing me tools for changing oil that he bought long before I was born. I remember handing him cardboard cans off a cardboard flat in the shop and at the track.

I just wish that Pennzoil was more available in my area. Unfortunately it’s not available like it was. It’s a nightmare to get it ordered, I can’t get it shipped affordably, nobody knows 25W-50 in Shell product Distribution centers, Nobody knows anything about it at parts stores, and I am tired of having to explain part numbers and prove that yes this stuff exists.

Very expensive to have to ride 80 miles for a case of 25w-50. I never see promotions or advertisements and no literature for the 25w-50 at places where I should find it. So if you are a person who is lucky to find this oil try it.

It is the best in Harley Davidson engines, anything performance or heavy duty. Bring back the 30W, 40W, 50W Racing Oils please I cannot be the only person who wants them. What happened to the Pennzoil banner flags at stores and race tracks? Oh yes If anyone is currently running Valvoline racing oil give this 25w-50 a try.

Look at the independent lab testing from Blackstone on other websites and read the numbers this oil is the best. I have had it tested myself running it in Harley Davidson Engines listed above and the test results made me happy.

Please make it easier to find in Oregon and make it to where it can be ordered. I like to use a product that I can trust because I have used it a very long time. Pretty disappointing when my father said he has no time to search for oil and uses your competitors oil because he can’t find it like he used too.

Be cool to change oil again with my dad using Pennzoil. Kinda sad for me to look at my dad a man in his 60s who was a loyal customer. He used nothing but your products so did his father. Yet sadly he had to change to one of your competitors because he doesn’t have the time to scout around looking for the products you sell he is a busy man.

Pennzoil you need to step up and get back your customers because this one typing this annoyingly long poorly written review has been pretty frustrated. How about you send my father a few cases of oil so we can have a box of empty yellow bottles ? Or those hideous new giant bottles ? Can anyone else remember the paper cans or the tin cans because I can remember tossing both into the trash when empty.

Any dads out there change oil with your kids or is that a thing of the past ? Make your products more available at parts houses like NAPA and O’Reilly. Make it so Costco can order it. Because I shouldn’t have to go to Walmart for your products and then they cannot order or find what I want.

Get it together Pennzoil get back in the winners circle.